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Need Robot Build Advice


Eagle

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Hi eagle..wow!..what a robot!...is it from a mag..comic..or film....i suppose the all important question would be the scale of the project?..there are some kitchen implements and fan covers that could be domed witha little persuation?..or good strong galvanised fencing or garden wire and soldering?...good luck with it..its a corker!...regards hj.

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That´s easy Mark! Buy two of these robots. They have the right antennas.

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Okay, okay it was just a joke. I think HJ is right. Take a look in the kitchen. Eventually you´ll find something at a dollar store.

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Mark, If you are refering to the antenna's themselves, photetching is perhaps something you want to explore. Micromark makes a excellent beginner kit. Photetching lets you design the artwork on your computer for the item's you want to make out of metal. This approach is perfect for this type of item. Another approach possibly is to buy repro antennas as Blechroboter suggested. Or perhaps borrow one and make a mold and then resin recast.

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Mark,

Another approach might be to "dome" some small metal discs using your english wheel (if you have wheels small enough) and then generate the antenna grid pattern on the computer , print the grids onto decal paper and apply to the domes. There are several space toys that use lithographed versions similar to what I described. Looking forward to seeing you on the 17th.

Joe

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:) Laser cut or stamp pressed cut from a dish shaped piece of tin! But, ...If you wanted to, you could lay it out using nice wire onto a hemispherical stand jig of some sort, perhaps a rounded end of a one inch diameter wooden dowel, and then solder it together. All solder work would be on the back of the dish shapes, leaving the fronts to look pretty good for plating using one of MicroMark's small scale plating kits. Tedious of course, but at the completion, you'd be a great micro solderer. Great picture! -Larry7

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I would use clear plastic disc's and domes and just add the line detail to the plastic. This way you have a very strong part that still has the correct look.

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Weld wire together using a rounded wood (or whatever material) block to create the fry-basket shape.

Or, find a restaurant supply store that maybe has a fry-basket in the correct shape. Check places that sell supplies to Chinese restaurants, as this sort of looks like the types of baskets that they often quickly fry food in.

Keep in mind... I don't know how to build any of this stuff, so I'm sort of making it up as I go along... ;)

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Mark,,,,,,like Doc said,If you are building big then Chinese is the way to go,,you need a thing called a Wok Strainer or Manderin Strainer or even a noodle basket .I was looking through Google images and must admit I couldn't find a great pic,but I'm sure if you looked hard enough there would be one almost identical as your robot part..

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Nice job Spark. :D Thanks guys for all the help. Laserman, I want to know more about this photo etching !!! John, have you ever done it ?

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Mark,

There are some nasty acid chemicals involved with the process, and you MUST take the proper safety precautions when working with ferric chloride or Hydrogen Chloride acid. But, with proper precautions, its fairly simple process. You start by creating your artwork in Corel draw, or some other vector graphic program, and print it out onto a special film on your printer (there are films available for ink jet and laser printers). This film will then be applied as a mask onto the metal (brass) you plan pour the acid on to etch, and make the parts. I've include a couple pics I found to illustrate what the result would look like.

I've used this process in the past for etching simple circuit boards, but have yet to try making other parts. On some of the modeling forums, I've seen some spectacular results by others. Dish antennas like you are trying to do are a perfect candidate for this.

Micromark as stated previously has a good system for beginners wanting to give this a try.

Micromark system for beginners:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=83123

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Laserman.....Thank you !! I have got to try this system. I am familiar with the process. We called it Chemical milling on the F-15. The area not to be milled was covered with a wax. It was used on the wing skins. AS far as caustic substances.... well I have dealt with those items on a daily basis. Skydrol, Trichloroethylene ,Methyl Ethyl Ketone , 5606, Hydrazine ........ LOX.. Nukes..Napalm. Agent Orange. I think I can handle a few caustic acids. Will order it up. Thanks for the heads -up !!!! ;)

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Yes it is basicly like etching as PCB. On the parts I have seen if it is to be a thick metal then the etched edge is not smoth as the acid will try to under cut the top acid resist material and if you ech in thin metal then the part you want to make will be so delicate that a strong breeze will bend it up. Trust me mill in lines on clear plastic disc's and clear plastic domes this will make a very strong part and only the milled or turned in lines will show up.

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