Tools To Repair Robots

[larry seven]

:) Hi guys and gals, here are a couple of pictures of tools that may be used for certain things when repairing or modifying robots.

First a small hook tool that I believe came in an old sewing machine tool kit. It has a small hook on the end and can be used on the tin toys that have the tabs bent over into a hole where you cannot reach behind to get it straightened back out for disassembly.

Also pictured is a similar hooking tool that I made from MIG welder wire, you can also bend it from a small coil spring that you can unroll. I made a loop on the back end because some of these tabs are tought to pull.

Next is a crimping tool for leg pins on robots that I made from a pair of side cutters.

I used a dremel tool to cut a notch in the jaws so that I didn't cut the pin, but smashed a crimp on both sides of a notch to look like the old toys.

It works, as the picture shows, but on larger steel 1/8 inch pins it is very very hard to squeeze enough.

I would recommend starting with a very long handled pair of side cutters so that you have even more leverage. With these it takes me both hands pushing down onto my leg with all my strength to make a crimp in a robot foot pin. This is stressful upon reassembly because of the danger of everything falling onto the floor if the pin breaks or slips.

I found a light duty crimper at the craft store recently that works wonderfully on light alloy or copper or brass pins but these are not strong for steel pins.

-Larry7

[duxastrogirl]

Good ideas. Now talking about repairs but bumping you out a little of the tools...Larry what is good to remove paint (chemical system not sanding)?

[Eagle]

Where is my DREMEL ? Great tip. Thank You.

[Sparkrobot]

Larry,,,,,,,Here's a picture of a special tool I use when all else fails!! :angry2: :P

[martijn]

Good ideas. Now talking about repairs but bumping you out a little of the tools...Larry what is good to remove paint (chemical system not sanding)?

I once put a robot in parts in a gasflame to remove all paint (only the tin, not the plastic eyes or motor ofcourse)

worked fine and I could easy repaint it.

for the more brilliant techniques keith palmer started a thread some time ago (I cannot find it), wich was full of the most brilliant brilliant ideas :lol:

(not to try at home)

[larry seven]

:) Hi Duxa, Henk recommended burning the paint off with a small torch, I have tried this and it worked, but I still use paint stripper from Walmart, it is called 'aircraft' paint remover, (for some reason), but it is in the automotive section.

I then wash the tin parts off with a scotchbrite pad drenched in paint thinner over or in a pail of paint thinner(hazardous to my liver, but then to quote Brian Setzer of the Stray Cats "How long 'you wanna live anyway?"). This makes the tin parts pretty clean, and after drying and blowing off with compressed air, any dents or bends are straightened with fingers, pliars or a small tack hammer.

Any rust is then buffed off with a dremel roto tool and the small sandpaper discs which last about ten seconds each before you have to put a new one on!

The small wire wheels that are for the dremel tool are also great, but they throw off the tiny wires everywhere during use, so wear eye protection.

A final wash and dry with rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth and the parts are ready for refinishing. -Good luck, -Larry

[martijn]

I once put a robot in parts in a gasflame to remove all paint (only the tin, not the plastic eyes or motor ofcourse)

worked fine and I could easy repaint it.

hi larry7,

I too did this from a topic by HI gosses, not my own idea.

once more I must say it would be great to see at one time all these ideas, techniques etc. gathered in a book or articles,

your special tools are great,

I got some: the tuning knob from a guitar to flatten out tin from the inside if its bend,

sharpened matches to remove paint stains or tough dirt,

the plastic back of potatoknifes to push the tabs back,

all sorts of improvise things, gotta make some specialtools like you, thats way more pro! :)

[bartzenegger]

larry .. cool topic!! dremel is a key took ... jewelers saw , close pin -- great for getting in little space areas and easier to hold than a sewing needle, add glue to a specific spot ect.. mixing cups , napkins ...sounds like im going on a picnic haha.

[duxastrogirl]

Thanks Larry!! Toolwise there are also the little minimal screwdrivers that come in repair glasses sets (you know those sold at Eckerds, CVS, Duane Reade and so forth). They get anywhere and have a big handle to manage. I also use an x-acto knife to get under and lift the tabs that are folded to tight. The x-acto knife is excellent for the picnic too...you can cut apples, open nuts...

[larry seven]

:) Good tools guys! Most of the repair work on robot toys is simply getting the motor running, soldering a loose wire, or repairing metal parts that are bent from abuse. If one has to refinish tin parts, the dremel tool is a must. I wnat to invent a random orbital attachment for it.

I have also a small cheap set of various pick tools from Big Lots that is handy for reaching in and unbending tabs, and a cheap small set of three needle nosed pliars and side cutters from the bargain bin at Tractor Supply that has really been helpful recently. I have a small hobby brake and various shaping forms, pliars, metal cutting shears and hammers and such as are used in my profession (auto body work) but on toy robot repairs the small hand tools are what gets used the most.

Several items that I think I am going to buy myself in the near future to work on robots are a small benchtop mounted hand operated lever press with interchangeable die design from the MicroMark catalogue. I mostly want to use this to press eyelets, but I'm dying to make a tool to press tab slots! I suppose that I could also use a belt/disc sander combo unit. I want to get a small gear press also, -I seem to fight gears when replacing them without a correct tool! -Larry7

[laserman]

Larry,

To add to this: and I know you paint for a living, but to build a home made paint booth is a great asset when refinishing or working from scratch. It can be quite simple making a box out of plywood. For venting on mine I bought four large computer fans (they use magnets instead of windings so to prevent fire-each one is 120 cfm) off of ebay for venting through a dryer vent to the outside.

On the subject of the micromark press, have you looked at the Grizzly shear and brake? They have many models to choose from.

link: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G6089

Tonight, I'll add pictures of my inexpensive vacuum former you can make for little money, and just use a shop vac for suction.

[Eagle]

For getting under tabs I like to use a piece of sharpened phenolic . It will not scratch the underlying paint . Glass beading works great for paint removal and does not warp the metal like sandblasting can do.

[larry seven]

:) Hi Laserman, the paint booth sounds good, in the summer I paint out in the driveway, in the winter I lean into the garage to put on a coat of paint and then bring it back into the breezeway to stink it up out there and not in the house. But I do bake 'em in the oven and stink it up in there. So I might just be a redneck! "Honey can you move those robot parts, I want to bake a casserole!"

Thanks for the link to Grizzly products, I will have to look them over.

Oh man, I am waiting to see your vac-u-former! That's the one thing I have never done or seen. Thanks, -Larry7

[laserman]

Larry,

Here is a set of pics of my two vacuum former boxes. I made two sizes depending on what size object I want to mold, Pretty basic plywood construction. I use a basic toaster oven for heating. I made an aluminum frame that can hold plastic sheets to fit each box size just by adding or removing frame elements. I use a 6.5 horse shop vac for suction. A couple pictures show a couple things I have made for my projects like the 1:6 scale action figure space helmet and the plastic emitter cone for the "Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea" laser pistol. Depending on the item I want to mold, and how many, I can use resin cast parts as molds (see helmet elements) or on high run glass smooth finish items (like the clear vivak pistol emitter cone) I may have a piece made turned from aluminum. But for robot restoration or scratch build, expensive aluminum is over kill. Another concern when molding is placement of the mold on the vacuum form box before molding as you may get a problem called "webbing" that will occur when the hot plastic is sucked over the mold. This if not done correctly could ruin the new molded part. There are several good books on this subject that should be read before proceeding. "Do it Yourself Vacuum Forming for the Hobbyist" by Douglas E. Walsh is one of several. I can give more construction info offline on the boxes if interested.

[larry seven]

:D WOW! And it draws the warmed plastic right down on and around the mold huh? I am just a simple un-frozen caveman tin toy robot man, I know nothing of these modern plastic shaping methods! Now I'm interested!!! Thanks for the name of the book, that's where I'm starting. Awesome! Arrgghhh! Not enough hours in the day, I need more hours! -Larry7