laserman Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Testors now makes a "Clear parts cement" N0.#3515C. Its formulated for glueing clear parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothunter Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Thanks Darryl and Laserman for those great tips!! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RotoBadger Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Thanks to all for the advice. The plastic pegs are still there although they seem like they've seen better days. I will be VERY careful if I use glue however. I just want to be sure I don't melt the plastic incorrectly. It seems like you get only one shot at this. And yeah, I got really lucky on the price on this one. The seller, at the time, had 0 feedback which may have contributed to the lack of bids.When I get a chance to work uninterrupted (the wife and daughter are out of the house) I give it a shot at repair.Man, what would I do without you guys? Seriously. Great advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Roto -You might also want to consider using clear silicone sealant instead of super glue. A small dab on each of the tabs should hold them in place quite nicely. And, should you ever need to take the pieces apart again later, it will be easier than chipping away melted plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Do not use supper glue for alot of reasons. Joe is on the right track with the sillicon but do not use sillicon glue either, use GOOP glue, you will find it at all home depo. lowels type stores and other places as well. A small dab of this GOOP on the tab areas will hold the parts in place with out destroying the plastic parts. As GOOP is a thick glue like sillicon it will stay just where you place it no chance of running. Also it is a flexable glue like sillicon so if you need to take the parts apart later, you can cut the glue and slowly pull it apart. Sillicon glue uses a acid base for the curing at is bad for electronics, also sillicon glue can not be painted, for these reasons I changed over to GOOP type glues years ago and so far no other glue has come close to doing as good a job for these type of projects. You will see that they sell GOOP glue in different type, Household, AUTO,Plumbers, shoe and so on, it does not matter what GOOD you buy they all work the same for what you are doing. They made a formula change change years ago to goop, so now they realy are all the same. Back when the glue first came out the AUTOMOTIVE GOOP was the only one I would buy as it had a solivent that would lightly eat in to plastic for a supper bonding hold, but now thanks to glue sniffing punk kids the formula is changed . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry seven Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 :) 'Darn glue sniffing punk kids! Oh wait, that was me. I also endorse the Goop. Good stuff. -L7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothunter Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 RotoBadger - How did the Mr. Robot come through his surgery? What option did you end up going with? After all is said and done, I think John's Goop advice is the way to go 100% God knows I've lost track of all the things I've repaired with it since John turned me onto this stuff! Let's see some photos of the poor little guy with head back on! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RotoBadger Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 Still have not had a chance to work on the fellow as I have been slammed with work, the house and family stuff. I think I am going to try the Goop route however. I will post the results later this week hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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