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Mr. Robot Repair Help!


RotoBadger

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I just picked up a white version of Mr. Robot in a decent box for, what I thought was a great deal. However, upon unpacking him there were some serious issues. First off...he does display pretty well. But the bad news is his head and the spinning mechanism under his head/dome are loose and came right off (as you can see in the pictures). The bulb is also broken. I can see that I will have to remove the bulb housing and re-solder a new one on but I don't know how the dome and spin mechanism are supposed to seat and stay in place. Nothing appears to be terribly broken or cracked. Should I glue??? Anyone have experience with removing and replacing Mr. Robot domes?

I got him for $348. I still think that was a decent deal but I want this robot to not fall apart when I pick him up at least.

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I'd written something, but I'm going to start again...

First, I've a quick question -- is that "Mr. Robot" detail litho, or a sticker? It's crooked, which is why I'm asking. Don't get nervous -- half my robots have crooked litho. But I just want to check...

Assuming it's litho, and if you can get the head back on -- shouldn't be too tough, but I'd wait for the experts to speak up -- I'd say you got a nice deal. It's very clean looking, nice and shiney. Not the most common toy in good condition, so I'd say you're doing well.

I can't help with the head, unfortunately, but I'm sure there are many people here who can offer some advice.

You know... Did the seller say anything about the loose head? Did they say, or imply, that it was in perfect condition? If so, you might be able to get a partial refund. When I told a seller that the box that came with my tin Dalek was fake, I got half my money back. On the other hand, the seller might say, "Well, send it back for a full refund." All things considered, I don't think you want that -- if you can fix it, why bother returning it? I doubt you'd find a better one. But if you can get a few bucks back, and still keep the toy... that wouldn't be bad.

Or you can leave well enough alone -- it's not like you spent THAT much, relatively speaking. And if you like the toy, then you're doing well!

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Hey Dr. A...The label on the front is indeed litho. There is some rust in the battery box but I used a little sandpaper on the leads and he runs just fine. Again, I got the box with this deal too. The seller is new to Ebay and, after an exchange of a few emails before I got the robot, I got the distinct impression she really knows nothing about robots. I might even go so far as to say she genuinely didn't know the head was not supposed to come off. For the price I'm really not too bent out of shape. At worst...just a tad dissapointed. I definetely want to keep him. I emailed her about the problem but have not heard back just yet. I hope I can figure out how to fix the bulb, get the rotating mechanism on tight and the head on securely.

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RotoBadger, the clear plastic head of this robot actually

should have plastic pegs that go through the metal neck

collar. These peg are then melted to hold the head on.

From your picture, I don't see the pegs. Are there pegs

that go through the neck collar ? If not, I would suggest

using a non-destructive white glue like Weldbond to hold

the head to the collar. You will do this, of course, after

you replace the bulb and revolving brain case. If there

are still pegs attached to the clear head, you could put

them through the collar and melt them over with a hot

blade.

If you really are not satisfied with this robot, I could

certainly take it off your hands... :P

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RotoBadger, the clear plastic head of this robot actually

should have plastic pegs that go through the metal neck

collar. These peg are then melted to hold the head on.

From your picture, I don't see the pegs. Are there pegs

that go through the neck collar ? If not, I would suggest

using a non-destructive white glue like Weldbond to hold

the head to the collar. You will do this, of course, after

you replace the bulb and revolving brain case. If there

are still pegs attached to the clear head, you could put

them through the collar and melt them over with a hot

blade.

If you really are not satisfied with this robot, I could

certainly take it off your hands... :P

Hey Robotnut...the plastic head does still have the plastic pegs you mentioned however I don't know if they are in the condition they are supposed to be. I can always glue the head on but the big problem is the rotating mechanism that is loose as well. It uses metal pegs. I really need to sit down when I have time and try to come up with a solution. I just want to avoid applying a "fix" that makes the robot less desireable or worth less than it currently is. At least it displays well though...

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Robtobadger. The spinning cylinder is just like the head. it should have molded in pins that extend though the steel base and are then melted to hold it in place. Attached is a photo I hope will help.

Robtobadger. The spinning cylinder is just like the head. it should have molded in pins that extend though the steel base and are then melted to hold it in place. Attached is a photo I hope will help.

post-56-1154890608.jpg

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One solution would be to lightly sand the areas where the existing tabs were to flatten them to the rim, cut some small tabs out of clear plastic, carefully superglue them on, press through metal ring and melt them in place.

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Rotobadger - He might have a few little problems, but overall looks beautiful and will make for a great display robot. AND you got the box as well for only $348.00!! I hate you! LOL!! If you don't want this guy I wil happily take him off your hands as I love the white version of this robot! ;)

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if you can melt the pegs as original ( always best). there are many solutions to your problem

i would use LOCK-TIGHT- cant remember how its spelled. its an epoxy that bonds quick and strong to most surfaces. it so strong it can be used on gears as well . they also make it for automotive applications . depending on the lock tight you buy some can with stand very high temps..

good luck

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Just use some "super glue" from your local hobby shop and be done with it. A few very small drops will do it. Get the Gap Filling formulation.

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Just use some "super glue" from your local hobby shop and be done with it. A few very small drops will do it. Get the Gap Filling formulation.

Grandpa - I was always told that super glue makes the clear plastic used in domes get cloudy and ruined. Is that not true? :huh:

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Grandpa - I was always told that super glue makes the clear plastic used in domes get cloudy and ruined. Is that not true? :huh:

That can happen if you use too much, but all you need is a small pin head amount, they also have a special formulation for plastic. It doesn't take much to make a good bond.

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Yes, please be carefull with Super Glue and most cyanoacrylic Locktites, as

they will make the clear plastic turn milky white. I've seen a Mr Robot head

that was glued on with Super Glue and it was not a pretty sight. The problem

is with the vapors that CA glues give off. If you were to use, as Grandpa said,

tiny amounts to attach new tabs , you may be OK. Let the glue dry 24 hours with

the head supported upside down. You may also want to use a small fan to carry

the vapors away. The next day, you can then melt the new tabs to secure the

head. If you were to try to do it all in one day, the vapors would pool it the dome

and turn it white !!! :(

Your other option would be to use a non-destructive white glue like Weldbond.

This is a polyvinyl glue that dries crystal clear and will not cloud the clear plastic.

By using this method, you won't need to fabricate new tabs. You will just apply

the glue to the base of the brain case and head. Then position the parts. I've used

Weldbond in the pass to attach clear domes and it is virtually undetectable... :)

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RotoBadger,

Just for info based on experience.... please make sure to carefully examine the plastic striped band. these tend to fall off quite frequently.... which could lead to frustration, especially when you have glued/melted back the dome. Yours looks in excellent condition by the way. Mine was falling into a zillion pieces and proved unrecoverable (and yes, only after having replaced the dome :huh: . With a valuable tip from Henk at that time, I made a repro using a professional laserprinter and an overhead sheet. Hope this helps

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