archive Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 What’s the best way to preserve robots? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archive Posted January 25, 2003 Author Share Posted January 25, 2003 If your collection is out on display be sure to keep it away from as much sunlight direct or indirect as possible. Over time the gradual insidious inevitable fading can occur. Depending on how fanatical you are this process can be slowed by the use of window shades black-out blinds and/or UV ultra violet filtering window films. Incandescent and flourescent lighting can also have detrimental effects on 'bots and boxes. UV filtering tubes and films can also be applied to the specific lighting used in designated "robot rooms". Our collections are entrusted to each of us for a finite amount of time. Eventually one way or another they get passed on to others to enjoy. As collectors we have a responsibility to preserve our collections as best we can.'Here 's a good starting point for "archival" quality supplies: www.gaylord.com They carry adhesives dustjacketcovers display cases UV filtering films envelopes & sleeves etc. Their latest catalog is nearly 700 pages thick! I too am not a paid rep for this company but find the information and products offered by them to be very useful. As collectors we have a responsibility to preserve our collections as best we can. They belong to us for a finite amount of time and then eventually one way or another they get passed on to others to enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archive Posted January 25, 2003 Author Share Posted January 25, 2003 'Rule #1 for any restoration work or repairs done to valuable art/paper/card anything worth preserving in general **It must be completely reversible and must not alter in any way the original as-is state of the item when undone.** Using ARCHIVAL QUALITY paste is a good safe start for simple repair. Make sure the paste is water soluble. For bigger tears archival quality repair tissue/tape eg: Lineco are used. This has drawbacks in that to remove it you have to use mineral spirits!. Best option is to use specially prepared ph-neutral wheat or rice paste for simple tear repair and as binder for backing material for major repairs. NEVER EVER just use any plain old glue or slap Scotch tape on em. Your boxes will thank you for it.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archive Posted January 25, 2003 Author Share Posted January 25, 2003 Before getting into robots I used to collect antique firearms and still use the same protective stuff good old gun oil on all my tin toys. I figured if it could keep blued steel from rusting it couldn 't hurt tin. After 6 years of doing this I 've never had a bad experience. I 've been tempted buy but I 'm too afraid to try then out on the litho. As far as plastic goes I haven 't a clue what 's the right stuff to use except to keep it out of direct sunlight.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archive Posted January 25, 2003 Author Share Posted January 25, 2003 Lithographed tin and blued steel are two completely different things. The litho on robots are extremely fragile and thin. Gun oil contains mineral spirits and will subtly degrade the litho over time. Furthermore it leaves a sticky film of Waxes most and polish contain abrasives and WILL mar the litho. Silicone pure/food grade is inert but leaves a tacky finish. Should be safe. IMHO the best solution will be to keep them untouched and stored in a DRY dark cool place. If you must 'protect ' themmicrocrystalline~ waxes are a solution used by musuems. They should be 'safe '. The brand Renaissance comes to mind. As usual all disclaimers apply.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archive Posted January 25, 2003 Author Share Posted January 25, 2003 On the preservation issue: In the past I used to trade tin airplane parts & junkers for tin robot parts & junkers with a tin plane collector. The litho on his trade material always looked clean & shiny so I asked what he used. He told me he polished with BRASSO oh my god! and then rubbed with WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil. oh my god! I said I would prefer un-treated parts in the future but he refused to cooperate so I no longer deal with him. Some of the parts I got from him have since lost litho paintaround rust pinholes or other damage. I can only assume that the oil wicked under the litho through the damaged area and lifted the paint. the metal underneath is shiny clean if thats any consolation I have used low abrasive car wax read NOT deep cleaning sparingly & gently with excellent results & no apparent side effects. I realize that this will probably upset some museum conservators but as I have stated in past posts I don 't have a lot of real high dollar museum pieces in my collection. I still think clean dry UV free storage is the ultimate preservation tool. easy for me to say as I live in the southwest' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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