Domes: Plastic Dome Scratch Removal

[Grandpa]

I have been asked by a couple of members of how I remove scratches in clear plastic parts (domes, face plates,etc). It takes some time and patience but well worth the effort.

I start with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper used wet, apply very light pressure and sand at 45 degree angles to the scratches, you want to blend or feather it in a larger arear than the scratch and follow the contour of the part. After most of the scratch is removed change to 800 grit sandpaper to remove the sanding marks of the 400 grit sandpaper, then use 1200 grit sandpaper to smooth it even more, all the sanding is done wet.

Now the fun begins. Use Novus #3 scratch remover, I use the blue shop towels that comes on a roll that you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. When you think you are done do at least 1 more coats of #3. Next use Novus #2 until the part is crystal clear. The last step is to polish it, bet you think I'm I'm going to say use Novus #1, nope. The best product to use is Kleenmaster Brillianize, it's even better to use than Novus#1 for robot clean up. It doesn't attack chrome plated plastic like Novus #1.

If you are like I am, you don't want to spend a couple of hours of hand buffing. I use a Foredom BL-1 buffing lath with soft cotton buffs for the Novus #3, #2 and change the buff wheel to a cotton string for the final polish. If you use this approach you want to use a SLOW speed and move the part in random patterns and use very little pressure.

Tap Plastic has the best prices on Novus products and Kleenmaster Brillianize and they also have wet/dry sandpaper to 2500 grit.

Tap Plastic link:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=10&

The Fordom link for a BL-1

http://www.blueridgemachinery.com/foredom2.pdf

Hope this helps.

[tinluver]

Hey Gramps by the time your done I will be on Medicare so I can cash in my pension plan and buy a new Dome! :)

[Grandpa]

Hey Gramps by the time your done I will be on Medicare so I can cash in my pension plan and buy a new Dome! :)

But you are missnig out of the self satisfaction of saving the original dome :) I realize some collectors are content to have beat up and scratched pieces that don't work, but other collectors are more hands on and go the extra mile to repair and clean up the original toy to build a better collection.

[H.I. Gosses]

Hey Gramps by the time your done I will be on Medicare so I can cash in my pension plan and buy a new Dome!

A remarkably subtle response.. Another very effective way to get rid of scratches in domes, TL,

is to throw the domes away.

BTW Granpa gives the sure way to success. I am usually more adventurous and impatient.

I hold it against a cotton wheel with rouge on a polishing machine at 2800 rpm.

In 95% of the cases it shines like the Koh-i-noor in 2 minutes, in 5% I have created a Big problem.

[Fineas J. Whoopie]

Henk- What kind of rouge do you use? That is to say what material is the rouge that you use originally intended to polish?

[Guest Brian.]

I guess Henk's talking about jewellers rouge, a red wax-like block of rubbing compound that I use on my diamonds. In fact any mention of jewellers rouge in my household brings heated comments from my wife. I once set up a power drill with a rubbing pad coated with jewellers rouge. I successfully removed scratches from a dome, but left an indelible ring of the blasted stuff on the walls, ceiling, furniture, carpet and my clothes. You have been warned.

[tinluver]

Actually I am a purist and applaud hands on to save the original at all costs.Just a little joke.Carry on!

[Grandpa]

Henk- What kind of rouge do you use? That is to say what material is the rouge that you use originally intended to polish?

Start with White and finish with Red rouge (change wheels) and use 1800-2200 rpm with 3" wheels. If your going to take the "Gutsy" route be sure to keep the piece moving and don't let it get hot. I can relate to the expierience Brian had :) I have found that the buffer throws the rouge "Up and Back" from the wheel and can create a real mess. A simple cardboard box with one end cut out and placed over the buffer contains most of the mess.

[H.I. Gosses]

......it's a mess here anyway..

In fact I am often even more cavalier. I often use the buffing wheel that happens to be

on the machine (Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh!) My way of working is very much based on

"virtuosity" as against protocol. If you are very nimble you can polish a dome

with a compound meant to remove scratches from stainless steel.

My mig welder is always set to the max. amperage. Still I weld from 1/16 to 3/4 steel

with it. It is a matter of speed, height and duration.

Half of what I make, I do not measure but judge by eye.

This approach both comes from natural impatience and the years of nervous moviesets

were a solution had to be found in 10 seconds flat.

I do not recommend it and it certainly has it's upper limits,

but it suits me fine.

[Grandpa]

......it's a mess here anyway..

In fact I am often even more cavalier. I often use the buffing wheel that happens to be

on the machine (Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh!) My way of working is very much based on

"virtuosity" as against protocol. If you are very nimble you can polish a dome

with a compound meant to remove scratches from stainless steel.

My mig welder is always set to the max. amperage. Still I weld from 1/16 to 3/4 steel

with it. It is a matter of speed, height and duration.

Half of what I make, I do not measure but judge by eye.

This approach both comes from natural impatience and the years of nervous moviesets

were a solution had to be found in 10 seconds flat.

I do not recommend it and it certainly has it's upper limits,

but it suits me fine.

I like your approach to construction.....measure with a micrometer, mark with a greese pen and cut with an axe :)