bartzenegger Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 im wondering how the wireing is in the battery compartment? am i missing wires? thanks henk i know its rusty :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 another Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 You are not missing wires but the rust has eaten away the the 2 tits that are pressed in the metal door, they contact the batterys. Both batterys go in the same direction as they are jusy wired in parrallel for longer life not higher voltage. Clean up the inside battery contacts then add some small (short) screws to the two holes on the back door to make the connection to the batterys. Also this back door has to make a connection with the wiper of the ON / OFF switch right above the door so clean that up as well.But I have to say that the more I look at your pictures I do not think you will get the parts clean enough to work very well if at all, they pretty bad off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike van Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Bart, I don't know how well they show up in this pic - but the battery door is punched in, the tabs being what contacts the batterys. The door is part of the circuit, current goes through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted July 14, 2005 Author Share Posted July 14, 2005 ooohhhhh!!! i have never seen a door complete the circuit b4. thanks sssooooo much guys ! i will hope for the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted July 14, 2005 Author Share Posted July 14, 2005 how can the robot be opened up? im used to tabssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Bart -You'll need to straighten out the metal tabs at the base just a little bit. They do not have to be completely straightened out. Do not use a screwdriver as you will more than likely crack the plastic. Try a pair of "duck bill" pliers.On the top of the shoulders you'll find either rubber O-rings or spring metal "clips" depending on when the robot was made. Remove them and the two body halves should separate.To restore the battery cover's bluish color, you may want to try gun blue:http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=339561 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted July 14, 2005 Author Share Posted July 14, 2005 thanks joe! well hes open .......... i have some work to do . hut ...as usual is right! the rust must be effecting the connection cuz meter aaaiint reading . to work.....oh work..... to work.....i go ... take it away henk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry seven Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 :) Bart, I have had these with a bad solder no longer making the circuit, also, my switches have been very shaky. Good luck, -Larry 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.I. Gosses Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Bart, where do you find them! The Net is awash with MIB father&son-robots and you must-a-picked-tat-un!!!However if you fine grit the metal parts and then go to a gunsmith for blacking agent, you will get it as good as new. There is also a method of making the metal rust,-a stage which you can skip in your case-, and boiling the rust. This then forms a very though, black, coating. I am sure John can tell you all about it. All Russian mechanisms are "blacked" that way. In this case it is easier to stick to the chemical solution. The base of the blacking agent is selene-acid, but if you can get a ready made concoction, again this is to be preferred. Good luck! ( See, not an irreverant word from me, the fear of the nukes has had it's effect..) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotnut Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 There's something I've used in the past called Nutrarust, but my local storesdon't carry it anymore. It likely has some nasty mutogenic ingredient in it... :blink: There's a product called NutraRust. It's a company out of New Jersey, and it wasformulated in England, where they used it as a metal prep on their battleships.You can brush this on and let it sit for 24 hours. It will actually neutralize the rustand turn it black.You can also try... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 It's been my experience that the motors for these Electric Robots tend to be heavily greased. It may take many minutes of manually rotating the commutator shaft (with fresh batteries installed) to get it to turn on it's own. I'd also recommend removing the light bulb eyes while doing this in order to delivery the full amperage to the motor, but I tend to think, Bart, that this particular specimen came with the bulbs already "removed"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted July 15, 2005 Author Share Posted July 15, 2005 thanks guys! the connection is strong from the door swith to the contact on the inside. i connected power up to the motor and it works great . soooo the door it causeing the problem.amazing...ly the insides look great with no rust. just the door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.C. Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Bart, you could always por15 it. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 the switch is now my main focus. how can i open w/o destroying it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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