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Daiya Space Conqueror Repair Question: Arm Lifting mechanism


Hymie

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Trying to repair the arm-lifting mechanism on my Daiya Space Conqueror. Ran across this forum exchange from about ten years ago:

 

 

While it was helpful in some ways, it was confusing in others (in particular the part about super glue and friction), so I'm going to start from scratch. My robot walks and shoots and makes noise as designed, but his arms do not lift when he shoots. I located the lifting link, which is not connected as it should be to the arm axle U-bend (see photos). What I don't know is whether it's just bent or if a piece is broken out. I'm guessing the latter, since I can't see how it would stay connected to the arm axle. I just didn't want to try to repair it until I was sure that it was broken (and had a better idea what it should look like when complete and connected properly). Any insight (or even a photo of a properly configured mechanism) would be greatly appreciated Thanks!

Hymie.

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I have repaired a couple of these, the hole in the link is far too big, probably due to the arms being forced down stretching the metal and possibly breaking a piece off ??, the hole should only be a slightly larger inside diameter to the rod it connects to, similar to the way the the lateral arm lifting shaft is held in place to the chassis. I would try to reshape the link so that it looks somewhere near the correct inside diameter, and then if it is obvious a piece is broken off perhaps the lower jaw consider soldering a suitable washer onto the link, but cutting a hole in the washer so that it can be connected to the lateral arm lifting shaft. Seems like it could be tricky job. Hopefully someone has a photo of the actual link showing it correctly connected. 

Unfortunately this is a common problem with the Space Conqueror.

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Very helpful, sir. Not surprised to learn that, given that the arm shaft was bent significantly downward on one side. I'm sure all the damage resulted from the same acute trauma. I think I can manage the washer fix. Was thinking about cutting out a ring of plated tin and welding it on with my new mini spot welder, but while the stock is sufficiently thick for tab replacement, I'm not sure it could handle the dynamics of the arm movement long term. Thanks!

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Update: Completed the repair of my SC. Soldering on the washer worked very well, though I had to make a  couple of internal adaptations to compensate for the overall trauma to the lifting mechanism. Anyway, it's now functioning like new. I also took the opportunity to install a spring to cover the red power wire from the battery pack. Now it looks almost new as well. Learned a trick about installing the spring wire cover (which I'm sure some will already be aware of). Once you've cut your spring the right length to arc attractively to the battery pack, if you will bend the last loop on each end of the spring down just a little, you can actually thread it into both the body and the battery pack so that it looks more "finished" (and also takes the pressure off the power wire on both ends). The beauty is that once you've started the the free ends into both holes, turning it one direction screws it into both holes simultaneously. Takes a little twisting and manipulation, but it's not really that difficult, and the result is well worth the effort. 

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5 hours ago, Hymie said:

Update

Great news, have you any photos showing the repair?

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I do. See attached. Had to use a washer with a larger hole than I would have liked to make sure it wasn't going to bind. Not pretty, but effective. The link was so distorted (and loose where it connected to the gear at the bottom) that I also had to tack in a sort of a "guard" to keep the link from sliding over to the other side and getting stuck. My mini spot welder came in very handy. Did that after I took these pix, so no photo of that. Sorry. Happy to describe what I did if anyone should have a similar challenge.

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Top job, always very satisfying to get these old robots back to working order

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