Hymie Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 New to the forum, so if this is discussed elsewhere, I apologize for reintroducing it. I need to solder a couple of tabs onto a robot -- that is, create a couple of new tabs from sheet stock, not try to reattach original tabs -- but the standard gauge scrap tin I've tried (from "cookie tins" and the like) seems too flimsy. Can anybody tell me what gauge the tin/metal is on most tin toy robots? Also, I assume a way to do this (if I don't want to disassemble the robot for umpteenth time and break more tabs) is to cut an overlong strip of the appropriate width, wedge it into the hole so it is in contact with the hole's straight edge, solder along the contact line and then touch up with paint if the weld shows. This will of course necessitate having a bit if a tab hanging inside the robot, but I've already disassembled this robot several times and would rather not do open-heart surgery again. Is this an insane plan, or has somebody possibly attempted something like this? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Try searching the TIPS & TRICKS section. Search for "metal tab repair". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hymie Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Will do. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 All toys have different metal gauge. Some are supper thin, and some are very thick. The new tabs should be soldered in from the inside "sorry time to take it apart again. "The hear from the soldering will damage the paint look on the outside. Glueing tabs is not a good fix. Go to a hobby store and feel the tin metal sheets they sell until you find something that feel about right for your toy repair. Or just buy a few different gauges of metal online, you will use then at some point for other projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotnut Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 For such repairs, I use a mini spot welder. They can be had for less than $50 and only make a pin prick size spot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Darryl, that may be the best advice I've read in years. Classic tin robots and space toys have all been out there for fifty or sixty years and the prospect of opening one has become a nightmare. I'd never attempt a tab repair. Solder is too awkward and the heat destroys the paintwork. Glue is an amateur's botch. But I never heard of a mini spot welder until now and I am blown away by its potential. I'm certainly going to give it a shot. Can you actually weld a broken tab? Or do you have to use the replacement strip method? Either way, this offers hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotnut Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Brian you still have to take the toy apart and make new tabs. Here's a rough idea of what the new tab looks like. You can make them from the lid or body of an old food can. Food cans typically have thin metal on the side and thicker on the ends. Of course you can buy new metal if you can find the thickness you need. The new tab is placed on the inside of the toy and spot welded. This is similar to the spot welder I have. It has a foot pedal and a current adjustment. The one in the picture is from Amazon, where you can see a video of how it works... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Thanks. I have one on order. I'll take a junker apart, remove some tabs and see how well it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalRobotHead Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 11 minutes ago, Brian.. said: Thanks. I have one on order. I'll take a junker apart, remove some tabs and see how well it turns out. Waiting with interest, I am assuming it will leave a small pin sized burn mark on the lithographed outside. YouTube has some videos that show it working, for some reason I unable to paste in a video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotnut Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Yes it does leave pin sized marks on the litho side. I would suggest practicing on a junker, before you burn any holes in your Machine Man or Diamond Planet . You can minimize the marks by adjusting the current. If there's not a lot of stress on the new tab, you could just make the tab straight, without the wings. and hit it with a single weld. For places where you don't want marks, I have used Loctite Industrial Super Glue, instead of the spot welder. Just make the mounting part of the tab a bit larger and sand the back until the metal is clean... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultrarobotman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 There's one in my future as well. What a great idea, never would have known. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Here is a video link for me testing out Robotnuts spot welding idea. Some tips for using the spot welder are. 1 Clean the metal surface that you plan to weld to. Bare clean metal is required. 2 Use the 0.2mm nickel strips for tabs. 3 Use a damp cloth or sponge to cool the outside paint. 4 Start with a low power setting and work your way up. You do not want to make a burn mark on the outside paint. If the metal strip comes lose you can always zap it again at a higher power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Very useful. Thanks, John. The magnet and the cooling suggestion are great improvements. I never had the confidence to solder tabs because of the overheating of the paintwork. I think this may be one of the best tools in my toolbox - when it arrives! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 I tested brass in this video. https://youtu.be/drWHRcF1Le0?si=PoXqaEugR9Y0b0ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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