Jump to content

Forbidden Planet Blaster


robothut

Recommended Posts

Since I had a screen used Forbidden planet Blaster back in the 1990's for several weeks and had made a silicon rubber mold of the Blaster I was surprised to find a thing-i-vers Blaster that was almost dead on correct. I made some changes for better printing and assembly and using any light source you want with a micro trigger switch set up, a screw on barrel. I will do a build video soon I hope, where I can show the 3d printed blaster next to the resin copy and pictures of the screen used blaster. I will cover proper paint jobs and so one.  FDM printed clear parts are not clear so you end up with a frosted or diffused looking barrel , maybe a rein printed barrel would look better, or you could make a silicon rubber mold of the 3d printed barrel and cast a clear resin barrel, or you could have one trunned in clear plexiglass like I did back the 1990's. Now I do not know if my up loading of the files to thing-i-vers worked or not as I never got the PUBLISH button to click on when I had up loaded all the files and info. But may be the "thing" number will work even if its not published. #4573606. this picture shows both the cast resin Blaster with the clear barrel and hard line sliver details, and the 3d printed Blaster with the frosted barrel with air brush silver details. The air brush silver details are the correct way, I did not use air brush's back in 1990.

DSC06754.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the main body prints prints in 3 parts, a front part  a back part and the grip. It is divided this way to keep from having to add a ton of supports when printing. The only filament I had extra of was the clear filament so the parts will be kind of hard to see until I paint them. The infill being visible makes for a strange looking part until it is painted.

DSC06739.jpg

DSC06738.jpg

DSC06737.jpg

DSC06731.jpg

DSC06733.jpg

DSC06736.jpg

DSC06734.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The barrel is made of 3 parts. The main barrel is tree shaped and printed pointy end down . This way no supports are required. The barrel is hollow. The there is the brass bobbin part. I made it in to parts so that no supports would be needed. The the tip.

DSC06742.jpg

DSC06744.jpg

DSC06745.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use any bright LED flash light you want for the guts. I used one from the dollar store. It is different in that it drives a supper bright white LED from a single AA battery. It has a simple voltage booster circuit to make this happen. All that for a buck.

DSC06746.jpg

DSC06748.jpg

DSC06749.jpg

DSC06750.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks great.  I've always wondered, and could you please tell what type of battery and bulb they used in the original blaster pistols?

 

David.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The batteries and  bulbs were already removed from all the Blaster that Director Bill Malone had so I do not know. The screen used Blaster that I had in the mid 1990's from from Bill Malone, after I added a light and made the silicon rubber mold of it , cast a reproduction ,they were  then sent to the collector in NY. The collector wanted to have 1 to play with and the screen used one kept safe. I just wanted to make a few repro's for some extra  money to fuel my many robot projects.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love it John, I purchased one of the resin kits years ago. It was pictured in black with hard silver highlights in the back and horizontal silver fins. I painted it that way. Later Mark inserted the lights and sound. I looked at it after this article and it still works. The clear front has turned a little yellow. Guess I should repaint it silver with the general highlights instead of hard defined highlights. 

ea139d4222b09e3dfeacac3963183d2c.jpg

DSCF0001-1.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes give it a nice gun metal paint job and air brush the silver details on it and it will look so much more like in the film.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John, when you airbrush is that to accentuate the raised areas and do you do any brush highlighting on the thin ring or horizontal edges or raised grip edges. Also back end looks like that may have been masked off. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

This site uses cookies to improve your visit. If you're happy with this, please continue.