Martian Gil Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Hi all, An project that I'd been sitting on was an old Atlas Missile launching tank. It's in fair shape - missing the radar array, but the treads are complete and the litho is dynamite. It even has one of the original darts / missiles. The rubber tip is long gone, but it'll give me a good start for making a couple replacements. I was always able to get the motor to run now and then, but last night it seemed dead for good. There is quite a bit of wiring in this tank, so I figured that it was a broken solder somewhere. I was able to get it opened safely - and I was a little confused that when I jumped right to the motor tabs, I got no signs of life. That was a new one for me - these motors always jumped to life for me. I thought maybe one of the contact tabs was cracked or grounding out for some reason. very maddening. I got the motor itself out of the toy - and took the contacts out. I'd found that the contacts were caked with that black stuff (on the qtip). I soaked a few qtips in electrical contact cleaner, cleaned the contacts - and then I ran the motor by hand while cleaning with another soaked qtip. The rest of this toys' gearing and internals are very clean - I don't think that anyone oiled this motor, but I don't know what that black coating on the pickups was? Corrosion? Also - I could only spend a couple mins looking, but the only references I could find relating to this motor shows a Chinese link. It runs like a race horse now - my question... should I do anything else to this little motor while I have it apart? Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 From the TIPS & TRICKS sub-forum: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Gil Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thanks Joe - I think I should have phrased the question more specifically. I don't know what the black gunk was. Other than the electrical cleaner that I used, should I consider or worry about re-placing / re-plating the contacts? Whatever the black gunk was, it took quite a few years to accumulate and inhibit function. I'm leaning towards putting it back together as is, later tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 The black gunk was probably the original, factory-applied grease. From use and age, the then "new" amber/honey color lubricant turned black, dried out and eventually served to seize the motor. From the photo you posted, it looks like the brushes are still in good shape. It does not appear that the commutator has worn a hole in them. I'd put a half a drop of oil on each end of the motor shaft and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Gil Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 20 minutes ago, Joe K. said: commutator that's it! commutator - the word was escaping me. Thanks Joe! They have not worn through, so I will attempt to put her back together later tonight. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 A lot of the commutator grease is black, as it is a graphite based grease. Do not put the motor back together with the brushes dry as they will wear out super fast. A small amount of any grease is better than non, but graphite grease is best as it conducts better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Gil Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thanks John! I have an old can of "graphited" lock fluid - the label says "colloidal graphite". Should I use a light grease, or the lock fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalRobotHead Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Interesting thread, thanks for posting about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I had never heard of the gaphited lock fluid so I looked it up. Enters as a rapid penetrant coating all lock parts. The special "carrier" then evaporates, leaving a graphited long-wearing film. After evaporation, will not run, even in hottest climates won't harden at sub-zero temperatures Sounds ok to use to me, as it just leave a graphite coating . will it last as long as grease ? I do not know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBODUDE Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Awesome discussion---Learned some new information !!! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Gil Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Thanks for the help & comments - I'll post some pics and maybe a vid of the toy later tonight if I can get her all cleaned up. Two more questions about this hunk of tin... The missile launcher raises and lowers from a linkage that connects at the rear of the tank - a pivot connection had broken. I would guess that at some point, the toy was off - with the missile launcher raised, pressure was put on it & the connection was popped. The anchor point on the rear of the tank is still solid. The inside diameter of the linkage rivet is pretty small. I was able to thread .66mm copper wire through both parts and twist / tighten it. As I test it, it seems to be tight. During operation, it works as it should - I'd prefer to be comfortable with the repair before I close it up - this isn't a toy I want to re-open. Any better ideas? I could try a steel wire for more strength. Don't mind the duct tape :) I had to use the tape to hold the batteries in while testing. Last question - the treads... intact, dirty, and a little loose. But, they work. They are for show - the motor drives hidden rubber wheels. Just soap and water to clean up the treads? I was thinking about auto armor, but i don't want it to be too greasy. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maloo Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 I am guessing this baby is back together now! Could the rivet be replaced with a nut and bolt/small screw and nut or is there not enough room. Or am i looking at the job wrong Yes i would use auto armoural on the treads. A nice repair happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Gil Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Here is the Atlas A-198 in action - and a close up of the radar console when illuminated. One of the original darts is still with the tank (plastic & rubber, not wood as the database states). The rubber tip had melted and hardened to the tank. Tip - repeated soaking with auto armor softened enough that I was able to remove it all without harming the litho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9tobor9 Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Lubrification fluid? Really? Lubric Fiction, black grease (the one I need, ooooh yes indeed) & smear, threads dirty & loose, frak, I switched on Alphatynder again.........................Greasy geekbla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Gil Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 29 minutes ago, Maloo said: Yes i would use auto armoural on the treads. A nice repair happening. Thanks Maloo! I just went with a bit of mild soap and water for the treads. I figured that I could do something different later, if needed. The wire seemed to hold well - for quite a bit of playing while I tried to get vid today, so I buttoned her all up. There might have been something to fasten it, but it was mighty tiny - and I think I would have had to tear more apart to get to it... Here is how it sits until I make up a couple new missiles... Cheers all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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