bartzenegger Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 hi , well my explorer is injured ! but i can fix it ! i need a fastener - maybe adhesive? that can adhere a gear to the axle . gear can not be allowed to spin thats how it broke in the first place. i have tried an epoxy called 5 min epoxy it says handles 1500 ibls. it really didnt work cuz gear is attached to axle and there is little room to get epoxy between the axle and gear.anyway ........ hhhheeeeellllpppppp! thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Bart,is it possible to solder the gear to the axle? If not, I have had good success with superglue and a fast drying spray-on catalyst. The catalyst speeds up the drying time, gives a better bond and seems to strengthen the bond as well. Hope this helps. BTW, looking forward to seeing that Explorer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.I. Gosses Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Hi Bart,-hehehe-, The regular product,-hehehe-, for this problem is,-hehehe-, Locktite 270,-hehehe-, or stronger. This is an anaerobic glue,-hehehe-, this,-hehehe-, should work,-hehehe-, suc,-hehehe-, ces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 Hi Bart,-hehehe-, The regular product,-hehehe-, for this problem is,-hehehe-, Locktite 270,-hehehe-, or stronger. This is an anaerobic glue,-hehehe-, this,-hehehe-, should work,-hehehe-, suc,-hehehe-, ces. robert, sounds good!henk ,buddy !!! you kill me! thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkrobotik Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 There's a hell of a strain on the space explorer's gearing lifting all the weight of the body etc.Try HI's loctite but if that fails get out the suggested blowtorch and solder but be careful Bart, brass melts easely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.I. Gosses Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Funkrobotik is right in so far that Locktite is in principal stronger,but...all glues etc. are weakened by grease and oxides.If it solders, it solders and you have a bond with a given strenght. (suffient here)I would not work with an open flame torch though, not even a jewellers torch, in a mechanism which contains plastic, paper, brass, cardboard etc. When the telephone rings, you melt the eyes!However a 80 watts soldering iron is a cumbersome contraption too. I have often filled a neighbouring pinion with solder too(!@#$%%$#!!!!)So me (and NASA) go for the chemicals. Do not use Cyanacrylates (superglue) in these cases. They are very strong but they are crystaline, so they become brittle and they shatter. (This holds true unless it does not hold true....Locktite 406 is meant for rubber O-rings and can stand a lot of shocks and wiggleling.It is very expensive though and, over here, only available for industrial use) And in conclusion I would add: -hehehe-. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 i have a mini torch and silver solder im going to test first to see ... i also have j-b weld which many people say it very effective epoxy. which i will test .will keep you posted. i think soder will be best do to weight strains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Solder is the way to fix it. but I don't know about silver solder as it takes a higher heat, you don't want to damage the gear or the shaft, you might try normal solder or acid core solder. Watch out for the wicking action of the solder it may try to get into the teath of the gear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 Solder is the way to fix it. but I don't know about silver solder as it takes a higher heat, you don't want to damage the gear or the shaft, you might try normal solder or acid core solder. Watch out for the wicking action of the solder it may try to get into the teath of the gear! thanks hut! i tested it on another gear and axle , the soder would not adhere i dont think jb weld will do the job either cuz it wont be able to get between the gear and the axle! hhhhhhuuuuummmmmmmmmmmm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike van Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Bartz - If you have a steel axle & brass or bronze gear, the solder should work, but - All parts have to be clean, and you really need a paste flux applied where you want it to stick. Then, both parts need to be hot, really hot enough or it just won't bond to them. I don't know how much room you have to work in there. Was the gear originally press fit on the shaft? If you can get it all apart, you could just solder some of the gear hole, redrill it & press it back on. I would really be carefull trying to get the steel + gear hot enough. The steel is o.k., you can't hurt that, but some of those geras are "pot metal" of sintered, or some crap like that. At a certain temp, they just melt. I'd hate to see two malpractice suits the same day!!! :unsure: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robobob Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Hi Bart, Mike Van got his post in while I was typing,So now I will just second what he said... :) Make sure the surfaces are CLEAN CLEAN CLEANand oil-free, and paste flux will work wondersat making the solder stick. I'm also not sure about using silver solder,but I have used both acid and resin core tofix loose gears...I use a small brush and coatthe whole thing with Paste Flux, and a 100 wattsoldering gun is plenty of heat to melt those...Maybe I'm wrong, but I honestly think sometimes using a mini torch can actually get things TOO hot...Like Mike and Henk said, I wouldn't want you to end up with a puddle of molten plastic and brass !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotnut Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 From experience, I would recommend soldering as well.Not only should the parts be clean but they should alsobe "roughed up" where the solder is to stick. I use a tinyfile to cut many scratches where the solder is to stick. Thisnot only gives the solder something to grab, but it alsoincreases the effective surface area. I use a 100W gun typeiron with a homemade tip made from 14 guage bare copper.The trick is to get the gear and shaft hot enough to meltthe solder on its own. If you let the iron melt the solderonto the parts, they will not stick very well. I always use60tin/40lead solder with rosin core. I've found that silversolder doesn't stick as well to steel and acid flux alwaysscars me. Acid flux stays reactive forever and eventuallycorrodes what it was used on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 oh man! thank you guys so much ! that gives me new hope! i tried non silver solder and it just beaded and fell right off. i will take new info and try it.spaceing between gear and shaft is so small that im concerned nothing can get between the twowhich i believe is very important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry seven Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 :) One more suggestion, if the gear is easily removeable, but then, nothing in that robot is easy, one could hammer (or 'peen') the gear's center slightly with a small hammer and punch to smash it around the hole on both sides, so it would fit more snugly onto the shaft. This slighly stretches the metal out into the little square hole a bit, can sometimes make it fit tighter. -L7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartzenegger Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 :) One more suggestion, if the gear is easily removeable, but then, nothing in that robot is easy, one could hammer (or 'peen') the gear's center slightly with a small hammer and punch to smash it around the hole on both sides, so it would fit more snugly onto the shaft. This slighly stretches the metal out into the little square hole a bit, can sometimes make it fit tighter. -L7 larry i have gear cam out of robot so that is an option, remember this gear was bent to begin with . i spent many hrs molding it to fit the pinion and arm gear. i m nervious to continue bending this little @$##@#%!!!!!oh, if you havent noticed yet on yours one little thing in one area will effect another area more than any other robot i have ever seen. its a disease that spreads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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