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In the meantime in the Dutch Caves......


marco

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Thanks Marco for the wonderful explanation, I know what you mean about trying over and over again, did that many times for decades...I'd build what I thought was a great model then throw it out and start over.  Such as the Robby on the top left in this 1980 pic. Stripped him of his hardware and re-built as I did many projects I just wasn't happy with in the end.  The Martian War Machine was thrown out by my Dad, somehow I left it behind when I moved out. That was a Cylon Warrior ship originally.

Old shelf.jpg

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Here is a Prusa i3 MK2 with a 0.15 nozzle printing at a higher resolution. I made the choice last year that printing at these supper high setting was not for me, life is too short and print time to long. HD print is 2:57 in.

 

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Yes, John, I soon reached the same conclusion.  I could print at a much higher resolution but the improvement really isn't worth the wait. It takes an age and the piece still looks like a printed robot.  A simple coat of paint gives a far better finish. The difference in heft between authentic Japanese tin and a modern plastic copy is substantial, so concerns about devaluation are groundless.

 

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I recall how little time passed from when I saw the very first computer graphics - little black boxes filling crude white grids, to 1600 dpi color images with millions of colors. I expect even less time to pass before these machines can make smooth models - a couple more years maybe.

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The machines are already out there, David, but they cost a fortune. We're using rather clunky Heath Robinson machines that squirt layers of plastic onto a hot plate. I'm constantly amazed that they work. Often they don't!

 

 

heath.jpg

 

 

 

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Yes the StereoLithography systems that have been around for a long time will do smooth prints, I used to use them in the 1990's on plastic prototype parts in the audio industry. But there are draw backs to them as well, they have new ones just for the home hobby guys but the cost of the unit and the liquid resin's and  the mess just are not worth it for me. The Poly smooth system does work, that's the new filament that smooths with a special unit that puts the printed part in a alcohol vapor for 20 minutes or longer. But from what I have seen it works best on parts that have organic type designs it does less on boxy designs, but it will smooth out the lines nd give a glossy finish if your willing to pay 3 times more for the new filament and the special unit that does the vapor job on the parts. The good thing is there is now mess or smell, its a clean way to smooth parts right in your home. There is a one new StereoLithography that is cool, its still expencive and still messy to use but instead of curing each lary with a lazer tracing out the part it uses a photo negative type system and in a nano second cures the entire layer image, bam, no scaning beam, just Bam. So fast and so high quality and so expencive and messy.

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What's your best guess as to when you'll be able to get great results right out of the machine for the same as it costs now? From what I've seen, I agree about the smoothing. What's the point if it's going to obliterate the detail and round all the sharp corners into a doughy shape? And what do these machines cost now - the ones you use?

 

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22 hours ago, Morbius said:

Thanks Marco for the wonderful explanation, I know what you mean about trying over and over again, did that many times for decades...I'd build what I thought was a great model then throw it out and start over.  Such as the Robby on the top left in this 1980 pic. Stripped him of his hardware and re-built as I did many projects I just wasn't happy with in the end.  The Martian War Machine was thrown out by my Dad, somehow I left it behind when I moved out. That was a Cylon Warrior ship originally.

Old shelf.jpg



ah so you have been there to :)   fantastic picture by the way.
Wish I could show some of those from my ( 2 ) childhood space toys  but they are gone long time...

what exactly did you do with that robby and what sort of projects ?

 

 

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13 hours ago, Brian.. said:

Yes, John, I soon reached the same conclusion.  I could print at a much higher resolution but the improvement really isn't worth the wait. It takes an age and the piece still looks like a printed robot.  A simple coat of paint gives a far better finish. The difference in heft between authentic Japanese tin and a modern plastic copy is substantial, so concerns about devaluation are groundless.

 



Its just the way you want to see things Brian and John :)
The Newest prusa can print up to 0.05 mm max resolution
The Ultimaker can print up to 0.02 mm max resolution 

When you draw files in cad, the details are there.. on not.
but a 3D scanned file contains much more details so when you want to see them in your final print. you must go into high resolution to make these tiny details visable..
That is the main reason i print in so high resolution... besides that, painting the parts afterwards gives also much smoother results because there is almost no lining anymore..
but yes, its takes way way way longer to print  :-)

I personally really like this high finished prints, the surface in grey metallic is really cool and fits many robot parts perfectly :)

Its GOOD that everybody does things in their own way... that leaves always space for learning from others...

OK, back to Trem Mike now... tomorrow I will finish the head for the Mockupd... almost there, ALMOST :).... cant wait to see it finished.. more tomorrow..
Marco

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3 hours ago, David Kirk said:

What's your best guess as to when you'll be able to get great results right out of the machine for the same as it costs now? From what I've seen, I agree about the smoothing. What's the point if it's going to obliterate the detail and round all the sharp corners into a doughy shape? And what do these machines cost now - the ones you use?

 

 David, there are so many techniques and machines nowadays..

I did some first tests last in december already to print with bronze, steel and brass 

The PLA filament contains real material and the prints end up like real steel, brass or whatever

Because there is real material in the plastic, it kills the nozzle of the printer. Ultimaker community made a nozzle with a ruby.. so its resistant to this abrassive materials.
Its pretty insane to print with real materials like steel and brass... fully experimental but i have made some sculptures from my wifes artworks, printed in brass..very impressive

so when I have the nozzle with the ruby, i can go and try steel filament... will for sure give some very cool robot arms :)

SO many new ways, techniques for all different purposes... its cool, takes time but its fun to do :)

 

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Awesome, fun project. I forsee in the next few years being able to scan and reproduce internal parts and mechanisms in a fraction of the time as well. Do not laugh.

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9 hours ago, marco said:



ah so you have been there to :)   fantastic picture by the way.
Wish I could show some of those from my ( 2 ) childhood space toys  but they are gone long time...

what exactly did you do with that robby and what sort of projects ?

 

 

I trashed him, took his scanners and a few other bits to create a new one.  Have a look at my FB album Monsters and Scratchbuilds you'll see many.  These are a few.   That pic you're referring to is my adult collection c.1980.

bugs.jpg

goon.jpg

gort.jpg

invisible man.jpg

models1.jpg

P1150302.JPG

P1150303.JPG

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Old tank/Alien project and walker made from Hong Kong plastic windup robot both c.1980, these are the ones I've rebuilt or in the process of. Building them as I always have although *Altaira is introducing me to current techniques/paints over time.  

tank1.jpg

walker1.jpg

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