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My Aoshin Flying Space Saucer build


Steve's Bots and Rays

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My interpretation of the Aoshin saucer proved to be a lot of fun to build, once I first broke it down into its individual components (a cardstock study model helps). Great opportunity for the use of graphics. As in my previous X-15 saucer build, I brought some litho details of the original into the dimensional. Even though these rockets don't launch, they do light up, plus I've added other lights as well. Saucer size is 12" in diameter. Turret moves up and down and all lights can flash or be steady on. Thanks for looking. -Steve

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Hello Steve,

I allready saw pictures of your creation on the internet :) At first sight I just thought it was an original saucer so i dont think you can get a bigger compliment :-)

Really a fantastic piece you made again. I know a little bit now the hours that it takes to build such a creation.
Very well done !!, keep up the good work :)

I have one question... is the saucer actually moving ( did you build in a bump and go mechanism ?) or is it just a static piece.
Very cool to see an other interpretation of this legendary saucer :)
Reminds me of the one I made last year .....


Cheers

Marco

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Rather biased since I love this saucer, In fact of any one has an original for sale PM me

Steve just a brilliant execution . You need to impart some of your design skills to the Chinese

& kick start some original robots from them :cheers:

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Thanks guys, appreciate the comments.

Marco, no bump n go mechanism, but it does have wheels that swivel.

Thanks Oz, if you have any contacts in China...let me know. ;-)

-Steve

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Holy crap Steve, that is AMAZING! I would love it if you could share some process with us, especially regarding how the litho was done...

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Thanks for the comments guys, appreciate them. This was a wonderful commission, a great chance to learn more about this saucer. Plus, if there are graphics involved, well, I'm all over that! Speaking of the graphics, I wish I had the equipment to litho directly onto metal. The closest I can come to that is with having my design files output onto vinyl decals and have a gloss coat applied. As far as process photos...I should really start doing that!

Here are some photos with the lights turned on. Unfortunately my camera settings are displaying hot spots where it's more of an even illumination in person....as well as red, not orange. Thanks for looking. -Steve

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Steve,

I've been thinking about ways of reproducing the look of litho on metal that would stand up to close inspection. I have come up with an idea that I think would work, but I haven't tested it out yet.

It involves using a plotter cutter (like the Silhouette brand) in conjunction with white inkjet-printable decal paper. You can find this paper online or at your local hobby shop, and the end result is a water-activated, old-school "slip decal" like you used to get in your old model kits.

Basically, you would start with a white primer base coat, and paint all of the large color areas of the design by airbrush or other spray application to get a nice smooth surface. The image areas of the design would be printed onto the decal film, precisely and cleanly cut using the plotter/cutter (you could also use an X-Acto knife if you had the skills and patience), and applied over the paint.

If the paint underneath the decal showed through using this method, you'd have to try first using masking film to block out the areas that the images would go on, then applying the color coat. When the masking was removed, you would have the white undercoat to apply the decals onto (in which case you could also go with the clear decal film). This is where the plotter/cutter would be key, as you could cut the masking film to the exact dimensions of the decals. With precise application, the decals might even sit down into the surface of the color coat, and not look "tacked on". The final step would be to add one or more layers of clear coat, to seal and protect the decals and achieve the high-gloss look of new litho.

If anyone decides to try this method, I'd love to hear about your results, good or bad! (BTW, I think your printed vinyl solution looks great...and it certainly involves a lot less effort than my idea!)

I would really love to know how you did those great-looking rivets. I've tried several experiments on thin sheet aluminum in my workshop, but have not been pleased with any of my results.

Cheers,

Dave

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