Zesko Posted April 16, 2004 Share Posted April 16, 2004 Has anybody tried re-plating an Atomic Disintegrator using the home plating kit or other method? If you have, would you mind posting a photo of the results? I've seen the discussions about using steel wool and such to clean the gun... but does anybody have an opinion on trying to re-plate the thing?I finally won a Disintegrator today without much opposition... Paid about $30 more than I intended, but what the heck. I'd like to do something snazzy with it, but not if it's going to end up looking like Frankenstein's monster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dratomic Posted April 16, 2004 Share Posted April 16, 2004 You know, there's some debate as to whether these things were plated to begin with. Some MIB examples that I've seen look just like the common ones on ebay, only cleaner. So you wouldn't be "re-plating," you'd simply be "plating." However, I've heard many people list these things with the description, "Still has original plating," etc. So I'm not really sure what the deal is. However, they're so common... I feel like doing some mods on them just for the heck of it -- plating, anodizing, whatever -- wouldn't be so terrible. I'm sure it'd look fantastic. I think a copper would look great (not plating, but painting, I suppose). Like the old Buck Rogers disintegrator...You could also consider casting molds of the grips and then reproducing them in different colors. I always though blue would look great with the silver body. Though you might want to wait for a mint set of grips before casting the molds -- most have a slight bend to them (from age) and they don't sit right in the metal part of the handle. It's a common ailment with the gun, but if you're going to make reproductions, you might as well try to make flawless ones if possible...The key is to pick up a junker of a gun -- maybe one missing the grips, or with a lot of gunk on the body, or perhaps with a busted firing mechanism. That'd be the one to play around with. Good luck -- and post any pics if you do anything! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert Posted April 16, 2004 Share Posted April 16, 2004 Hey Doc, regarding those grips: Would it not be possible to heat them, say with a torch (far enough away to simply soften, not melt or set fire) and make them lay flat against gun again? I don't have a Hubley yet, (Have been beat out at last second 3 times now!) otherwise I would try it myself.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe K. Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 That heating idea has some merit. The warpage problem is also prevalent on the (original) Mr. Machine wheels. I was able to "straighten" a couple out by dipping them in boiling water for a few seconds and then re-bending them. The time factor is critical. I tried to re-shape one and left it in a little too long and the warpage only became worse.Instead of a torch, I'd first try a hair dryer or, if that wasn't hot enough, a heat gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zesko Posted April 17, 2004 Author Share Posted April 17, 2004 I thought maybe I'd try the old trick for flattening warped vinyl records... Pre-heat an oven to around 200°... Place the warped vinyl on a good, flat cookie sheet... Place the cookie sheet in the oven for about 30 seconds or less. I realize it may take longer for thick plastic, but the principle should still work... It's all a matter of timing!As for plating or re-plating or refinishing in general, I also thought about trying MirraChrome... Or maybe MirraChrome with a candy tint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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