Eagle Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Doc,,, I'm talking about if the unit was formed in one piece. At the bottom of the helm ,where it turns into a collar can be tricky to "Pull" on a Vacuum table. The vacuum wants to pull down towards the vacuum source, not "In" . I know it doesn't make sense but its a gravity thing. Unless you could pull it upside down. OWE ! Dripping molten plastic on my arm. :P Lets see what John and Gramps think. I'm thinking this thing has to be formed in two pieces unless the plastic is so thin it will pull . But I think that is a problem encountered by the original manufacturing process,,,,,,,thus the two pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dratomic Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I understand how the vacuum works, and I understand what you're saying... except the original was never one piece. It's a front piece and a back piece that are glued together. I'd want the reproduction to work the same way, or what's the point? ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 If that's the case, you will have to disassemble an original , otherwise no overlap. How is the glue on that seam ? Here ya go Doc. I just picked this up at a dentist office auction. This thing will move some air . Hmm I can't upload a photo,,,, Well let me try it with photobucket. Oh yeah, watch this video on the evolution of the Bot.http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1206622/robot_evolution/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 The part is very simple to vacu form, no under cuts, it is a two part design and the reproductions would be as well . The two parts are glued together with normal water thin plastic glue that you apply with a syringe. I think that the two slots at the top of the dome where it connects to the head were melted in useing a flat forked tool after the domes were glued together, we can do that or dremel in the slots. There would be two master parts one will have a raised lip added around the bottom of the slug, this makes for the glue over lap space, the second will not have a a added lip but will have added depth for the over lap plastic so that when the two parts are joned the out side dimension is still correct. If I can find the time I will work om the master molds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrewLoose! Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 Hi, just wondering if anyone has come up with a suitable replacement helmet yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.