marco Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Hello Brian, which bulbs do you need ? I have tons of them that came out of Shinji`s Miyazawa workshop. there are also a lot of small ones among them. Let me know which ones you could use and I will look for them, and if I have them, will sent some over. CHeers Marco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Thanks, Marco, that's very generous. I already bought an assortment of LEDs because I want the lights to flash and can't begin to work out a mechanical way to get them flashing in a sequence. Too many cams and contacts. But I've already bored my wife senseless with a little flashing LED circuit. She gives me NO encouragement, but I wouldn't trade her. I already tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marco Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 You are welcome Brian... Still... but you know me a bit by now... I think that nothing beats a real bulb, also in this kind of projects ! :) that wife part sounds familiar by the way hahahahaha Have a great weekend ! Marco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Brian, your first post was August the 22nd, by Sept 3rd you already had the majority of your robot printed, truly amazing my friend! Can't wait to see it finished and maybe get one to add to my shelves. Cheers,Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted September 10, 2016 Author Share Posted September 10, 2016 It was quite easy to get a pin walking mechanism working - I just copied John's Foki design!!! He even posted the parts on Thingiverse. John incorporates a clever circular pivot inside the leg that makes the pins move properly. Sadly the effect is just wrong. It looks comical and the narrow body makes it unstable. I don't like to see him jiggling along like a cartoon duck. I'd rather he was static than silly. So now I'll push on with the lighting and will tidy up those arms. He's also going to need an aluminium paint job. The silver filament isn't bad but its not got the tin can look of the movie. This really is great fun. Design a piece, print it, test it, redesign it, and repeat. I just love the whole process. I took a day off to visit Sandown toy show. 500 miles round trip for absolutely nothing. I had plenty of time to think about what's possible with this new technology. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Aww...Not to worry Brian, it will still look great when it's finished. The walking bit is the hardest part to accomplish. Maybe your trying to run before you can walk...ha! You have done an amazing job already in no time at all. No goodies to be had at Sandown then. That's a pity. The film clips are great, they don't make 'em like that anymore eh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 The walking works fine, Paul. John's design is pretty foolproof. But it's just out of character with the robot. A regular walking action would be better but that's beyond me at the moment. I just discovered another two lights on the robot, one on top of the spring antenna and one inside the helmet to cast an eerie light on the face. Yum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Hi Brian Yes, I know it's a great walking design but as you say, it doesn't suit your particular robot. You will get there in the end. It's just trial and error I imagine until you find the solution which will come to you the more you work on it. It will be just fine as it is and will look very atmospheric when lit up. I have only up to yet done a few conversions, most were not great, possibly my attacking Martian was the best. This foki is similar in that as I have never tried to make one before, I find I am constantly finding a better way to make or fit the parts together. Hats off to the tin robot makers too, it's not easy. I would say foki is an easier one to tackle, I would not know where to start on say even an humble rotate- o- matic type robot. It makes you appreciate what marvels they really are.....very clever and a lot of skill. No wonder yamashita bots are so expensive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Scale it up Brian and use the single servo controler "4 leg/ feet servos" design its up on thing a verse as well That way you can get the shuffle walking with ratchet wheels and you can design it look any way you want. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547525 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 I'll take a close look, John. Thanks. Meanwhile here's my first circuit ever. Not pretty, but effective. It will power 7 LEDs in total. Three will flash. That's two together for the ears and one on its own for the headlight. Then three steady LEDs will give an effect in the chest and lower helmet. Finally one steady little LED in the antenna. All off a 9 volt battery. Individually each piece is simple, but together they look complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 That soldering looks pretty good Brian. You are easily LED! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marco Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Brian how cool.... " I just discovered 2 extra lights on the robot " hehehehehehe not very handy when you are in the process of designing :) Were you able to get the robot walking already or do you still stick with the pinwalking ? or will it be static ? Marco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian.. Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 Well, the honeymoon is over and now I'm trying to move towards a finished model. There's no way I could get a regular leg working, there just isn't room. The pin walker does do the job and since I've done the work on it I guess I might just as well leave it inside: I can run everything, lights and motor, off a 9v battery and there's room to squeeze it alongside the motor. If I slow the motor to a crawl I guess the action doesn't look too bad. Now I just have to add some resistors to reduce the voltage. The narrow robot makes balance an issue, but by positioning the arms correctly it's manageable. I must paint this robot, though. It has such a distinctive aluminium finish that it's crying out for a coat of paint. I found the extra lights by watching the movie, Marco. It's not as easy as counting the bits on a robot in front of you! See the little light at the top of the spring antenna. It's a peach! The internal helmet illumination is probably just a filming effect, so I'm back to six lights. I am tearing my hair out but loving every minute. The Flashforge developed a minor fault and I'm waiting for a replacement control board from China. They offer extremely good support and the part should take 3 days to reach me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalRobotHead Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 I've been following this with interest and am pretty impressed, Brian, how you have taken it all on board and learnt how to do it, and your patience getting it right. My son was at home this last weekend and is now thinking of buying a 3d printer after I told him about the activity here on alphadrome, his interest is model cars and saw the opportunity of designing and making his own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Two AAA batterys would take up the same space and give you 10 x's the run run time of a 9 volt battery. Small DC to DC inverter boards that can give you higher voltges for the LED's are small and cheep, I have some that are about as big a round as a pencil. or if you use RED flashing LED's they will operate off 3 volts with no extenal circuits or ressistors. I am not telling you this to make you change anything you are doing just shairing information that might be helpful at some point. The color of the LED will change the lowest voltage required to operate, RED has the lowest voltage rating. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331875342371 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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