robothut Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Now the head will be held together with 4 screws. So first you drill out the screw holes. The screws are 3 mm so you will need to buy a 3 mm drill and tap. Tap the rear head holes and then drill out the front holes with a larger bit so the screw can pass threw freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Here is the head wired up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Lastly you need to drill and tap for the the dummy screws, two on each leg and one on each arm. I did not take a picture of this step, but its straight forward enough. Then paint the brass screw with the black paint. I left mine brass for now. the robot is done and it works, as you can see in this you tube.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roboz Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Wow great build ! Nice job John why do you have to paint the screws ?? & could you have done that before you screwed them ?? Also how do you change the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Well as Marco has it designed you have to remove the front body screws then cut a cable tie, unplug the battery. then get out the solder gun and unsolder the battery from the connector wires then solder in a new one. I plan to make a few changes to my bot, but promised Marco I would build it first as per the instructions. I think as a way to double check that everything worked. It does. I think you paint the screws so they look like the original robot. Yes you can paint them any time, but the screw driver will scratch off the paint in the slot when you put them in, so if your going to paint them you might as well do it last. I like the brass look myself. The robot does have a short run time and is a bit unstable. But that might just be the price you pay to have this great classic robot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalRobotHead Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Congratulations to Marco for producing what looks like a very complicated design, also to John for making it up from a kit. I thought in my naivety, the kit would be supplied something like an Airfix kit, just remove the parts and assemble, obviously a lot more to it than that. Once again, great work by Marco and to John for the detailed build instructions and photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunik Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Cheers to ROBOTER 703-D #1K ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Built and running already, great work John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marco Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 And suddenly there is Roboter 703-D #7 standing on John's shelves ;) WOW !! Congratulations and very well done. First I want to thank John for building it up using the instructions. when you develop and build such a robot and than you have to write down all steps its not that easy. Of course John has a lot of experience in building robots and can fill in the gaps. From what i could see is that you went through about the same steps as I do so that is good to see. I see the robot is walking but the left foot seems to be stuck. I think that the block with the rod inside can not move freely there inside. My experience is that making the legs hollow is the key here. the area at the bottom must have all the wals very smooth and thin enough, otherwise the "block" inside can not move freely enough and will get stuck.. the result is that the foot does not pivot correctly and that is what I see in the video. the left foot does not pivot correctly. Also you can cut of the corners of the feet John, the area where the bottom and the foot are glued together and file them a bit, makes them round and smooth. I will add that step to the instruction in the next update :) The paint for the screws is a dark metallic paint that gives the screws almost the exact vintage look as the original robot. John, the paint is; Tamiya X-10 Gun Metal, Gloss 23ml #81010 I am sure you can get that color there ;) What I do is paint the screws first and than cut them and use them. the paint is strong and also a screwdriver does not do to much damage to the paint. I personally like the brass look as well by the way :) The running time is indeed not very long but I guess that most of these will end up standing on a shelf between their brothers and sisters :-) The balance has all to do with the building and my experience is that a single mm difference somewhere is causing unbalance to the robot. also the legs must be hollowed out correctly and the block inside with the rod (number 4) should move freely inside the leg. I added those 2 little socalled " correctionblocks " to adjust the difference and with them you can get the robot perfectly vertical. Its for sure the most difficult part of the building of this robot, the balance .. I think you really did a great job John, really my compliments because after all its a difficult build to put together all those parts and get it going, very cool ! Of course i would love to hear your suggestions in the building and because you have a different view on things, your suggestions are more than welcome. One thing is the legs, maybe you are able to make them hollow digitally. I have not really tried this and choose the dremel way... It could make the building of the kit a bit easier i think :) Enjoy the robot and I am sure it will find a nice place on the "VST" shelf :-) hehehehehe CHeers Marco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 I think I have a bottle of Tamiya gun metal out in the shop some place, but if not all the hobby stores have it. As for the clean leg. Yes I thought that it was very important as well thats why I added the step of running a flat file inside the hollow legs. They are smooth as a Babys bottom from end to end. I do plan to try and adjust the leg linkage a bit but I am waiting until I play around with the Bi Metal "thermal" flashing bulbs that you and I have.I want to make a 3d printed part that attaches to the inside back of the head just like the original roboter that holds two screw base sockets and once the bulbs are screwed in the poke out threw the eye holes. The design a battery holder for the two 1.5 volt N type batteries that the original used. Now I think this will change the balance of the robot so that's is why I am waiting to adjust the leg linkage, only want to do that once . I hope. Any way working a test print for the bi metal flashing lamps right now. the pictures below are of the inside head of the original roboter and the instruction sheet so you can see what I am talking about . Marco knows what I am talking about so this is just for those that are interested.If we could find more of these type bulbs it might efffect you guys as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 That's going to be a good improvement re the roboter 3D eyes John. All credit to Marco for his lighting solution, it works...... but if your alteration also works (I am sure it will!) it will give roboter 3d a truer vintage robot spec. Interesting stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marco Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Hey John, Yes the construction for the original bulbs is still inside. I remember the rest was made of metal, the holders for the batteries and the eyes. You have to play again with the balance when you want to place 2 batteries inside the head. That weight in the head instead of the center body will alter the balance for sure If I remember correctly the batteries are in the backpart of the head yes and because the robot tends to go backwards already you have to put more balance forward without the head attached. Easiest way to adjust is to use the correctionblock for this.. you can adjust the robot easily forwards and backwards than. If you need some extra parts than let me know, not a problem, I will sent them when I come back from vacation. Looking forward to see the outcome of the original bimetal solution :) Very cool to have at least 2 roboters with these installed :) If we can find more of these, the smd cars can be skipped Happy building ! Marco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Taking Marcos advice I took the left leg off and removed the gold pin and found that when I added the screw head details to the legs some of the drill debris had fallen down to the tight area near the gold pin, where the front of the leg base is so close too the mounting block in the foot. Just enough to make that leg a bit stiff. Its happy now. I also found my gun metal paint that Marco mentioned so went ahead and painted the screw heads. And I rounded the foot base corners as per Marco's suggestion. Looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBODUDE Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 A GREAT ROBOT !! AMAZING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robothut Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 I thought two 3d printed parts would work as the lamp screw base holder and the battery box. And so far so good. Having a screw base in there will give a person choices of different bulbs to use, like flasher or LED's or who know what. The batter box holds 2 N type 1.5 volt battery. Just made some simple contacts from brass stock I had laying around. The batterys push in from the bottom. I gave the system a polarity in case we use bulbs that have a polarity "like ones with flasher circuits or LEDs in them. The screw base lamp holder part glues to the back of the head that way all parts and wriering are contained in one part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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